Spain - Madrid and Andalusia
Madrid and Andalusia (two weeks)
Days 1-4 Madrid
1 I arrived at Madrid Barajas International Airport. By only bringing a carry-on bag and a backpack, I did not have to wait for baggage arrival and could go right through the passport check and out to my reserved private transport to the hotel. I recommend this for the day of arrival because when tired from a long flight and disoriented by signs in an unfamiliar language, it's nice to have someone waiting for you with your name on a card (like you're a VIP), who can spirit you away from the crowds and into a comfortable vehicle for an easy ride.
We stayed at Hotel Catalonia Las Cortes, which was clean and comfortable and centrally located in the Barrio les Letras in the middle of the old part of town. The multilingual staff were friendly and check-in was efficient. This hotel provides afternoon snacks and beverages in the bar area that were very much appreciated. A short afternoon siesta and time to freshen up helped give us the energy to venture out for an evening stroll and tapas dinner.
Since it was the day before Easter and the end to Semana Santa (Holy Week), we followed the processions to Plaza Mayor and took the opportunity to withdraw euros from a bank ATM (usually better rates than exchanging currency). We picked outdoor seating on the square and enjoyed a local dish of bocadillo de calamares (fried squid sandwich).
Afterwards, we walked on Calle Mayor to Puerto del Sol, and then down to Fuente de Cybele along Calle de Alcala. By the time the sun set, we were strolling past the tree-lined Paseo del Prado by moonlight as far as Fuente de Neptuno (the Neptune Fountain), and then turned right on Calle de Cervantes back into our neighborhood. Cervantes is a national hero whose name and visage pervade the Madrid landscape, and he and other literary figures adorn the tiled facades of cafes in this neighborhood. A right turn on Calle del León and then a left at the end on Calle del Prado and we came once again to our hotel on our left. I love a post-dinner stroll in the vicinity of my hotel to both orient myself to my surroundings and observe the local people, places, and customs.
2 We began our first full day in Madrid with breakfast at Barehua on Calle del León. A chic young staff accommodated our limited Spanish with a bit of English and cheerfully served eggs with spinach or ham and a slice of fresh bread plus a shared bowl of yogurt and fruit and of course a cup of café con leche.
We then explored the neighborhood by daylight and took the Metro (line 2 - red) from Sol to Ventas in the afternoon. We had bought tickets online in advance for the Plaza de Toros Las Ventas arena and museum audio tour, including dinner across the street at Taberna la Tienta. Dinner began with a delicious jamon iberico plate (Iberian ham and manchego cheese) and tomato salad followed by an entrée of cod and potatoes and a second one of rabo de toro (bull tail) stew. For dessert, we had cheesecake and chocolate cake with café con leche, all delicious, in a fun, energetic tavern setting with locals standing inside and outside drinking cerveza and waiting for the bullfight, for which we had also bought tickets online.
Entering the arena and searching for our seating section, we paid 1.5 euro apiece to rent cushions from men loudly hawking them at the entrances since the seats are concrete. It was reminiscent of a day at the ball game, but the spectacle was anything but an ordinary game day. It was both enthralling and disturbing, yet so iconic a part of Spanish heritage that we felt obliged to experience it at least this one time. Upon return to the hotel, we went online and bought tickets for the high-speed train to Toledo for the next day. We found throughout our trip that thetrainline.com was helpful in navigating the rail offerings, and we could easily secure advance reservations online and download the tickets to our phones for quick scanning at the stations. I like being able to download the PDF of the ticket so I can keep my phone in airplane mode to reduce data usage.
3 Toledo is a lovely city just 30 minutes from Madrid by train, and a visit makes a perfect day trip from there. Be aware that you may have to send any backpacks or luggage through security screening at the train stations throughout Spain as you would at the airport; and have your passport with you even for a day trip as your ticket is linked to it, and you may be asked to show it.
While in Toledo, there are many things to see and do. Enjoy the intersection of Jewish, Islamic, and Christian heritage with centuries-old Moorish archways, medieval gateways, Roman bridges, gothic cathedrals, a 10th-century mosque, and a 14th-century synagogue. There is the El Greco Museum, but even if you don't have time for that or it is closed, you can still experience his works at the Museo de Santa Cruz. Within its interior there is also an archeological site with remains of the original mosque on which it was built. It's an interesting walk-through if you step carefully and duck through passages. Take the time in Toledo to shop in the many little stores along the way, and in particular you will want to look for damasquinados (or Damascene) handcrafts (black steel with inlays of gold or silver threads found as plates or jewelry) and mazapán (marzipan) almond-sugar treats.
4 The final day in Madrid allowed for a leisurely morning and walk to some sights we still wanted to take in. We first walked to the Royal Palace and Cathedral in the west part of the city and saw the remnants of the original murallo arabe (Arab Wall, vestiges of the 9th century fortification built during Muslim rule of Iberia). This left a few hours for seeing the most prominent pieces and periods represented in the Prado Museum (like The Meninas by Velasquez, The Three Graces by Rubens, or works by Titian, Goya, El Greco, and even a Picasso).
We ended the day with dinner and then a flamenco show at Tablao Las Carboneras, which was exciting, entertaining, and one of our favorite activities in Spain. The flashing, rapidly tapping feet of the male and female dancers as they expressed their passion and emotion in response to the live music (guitar and singing) kept us enthralled for the entire time. This was not an exhibition or rehearsed performance but an improvisation from experts with years and years of experience, something akin to jazz, the highest of art forms and so associated with Spanish culture that, like bullfighting, it is protected by UNESCO. The songs, guitar, and dancing enveloped us and pulsed inside us as we sat next to the stage with rapt attention. Excellent!
Days 5-7 Málaga
5 The next morning, we boarded a train for our next destination: Málaga. Tickets are reasonably priced for what you are getting, and you can usually find bargain prices if you are flexible about the time. Note: if you have a planned itinerary as we did, it is not worth it to get the European Rail Pass; you are then better off buying the tickets for each leg of the trip as you go and as you decide on your intended departure/arrival times. The rail pass is better for those without set itineraries who want to be able to travel on impulse and decide on destinations as they go; however, you still need to make seat reservations even with the pass.
With backpacks and wheeled carry-ons, it was not difficult to walk to the Gran Via Metro station and hop a train down line 1 (light blue) to the Atocha stop, which also gives you access to the train station for Renfe, Spain's national railway. The 19th-century station is just lovely, with its huge arched ceiling, shopping complex, and tropical garden with hundreds of plant species. At 3 hours, this was the longest leg of the trip, but the seats are comfortable, the ride is smooth, and the scenery out the panoramic windows is breathtaking, with green hills rolling by and taller mountains in the distance.
The Maria Zambrano station in Málaga surprised us with its size and modernity. We were able to get a taxi by queuing on the line outside the station, and our hotel was a short ride (planned that way). Most taxi drivers we encountered throughout the country had at least some English, and with our little Spanish, we were able to communicate well enough. Just in case, though, I would have the address of the destination handy to show the driver. Some drivers, if they are friendly enough and know you are a tourist, will give you a mini-tour, naming landmarks and points of interest as they go. You can jumpstart them by pointing out the window and inquiring.
Casa Miraflores was more like a small apartment building than a hotel (it's identified as a hostel, but it provides a lot more privacy than what I think of when I think of a hostel), with no front desk reception or on-site staff. Upon arrival, we contacted the manager by email, and she arrived quickly from nearby to let us in, give us our keys, and show us to our room. There is a shared reading room and kitchen and dining area upstairs, and guests are welcome to prepare their own meals. We kept some breakfast items in the refrigerator but wanted to sample the local food. While the room was quite small and tight, the view of the tiled inner courtyard and lounge was delightful as we unlatched the small windows from our room, and the bathroom was quite cheery with bright yellow tiles. The manager was always available on WhatsApp, and the whole place is very safe with keycode locks on the front door and room doors. The hotel is perfectly located right in the central historic district. Walk right out the door to a selection of several restaurants on the pedestrian-only streets, or walk down to the harbor for a slew of cafes at the marina.
Based on the manager's recommendation, we walked down the famous 19th century Calle Marqués de Larios to find a restaurant with some traditional paella. We were not disappointed. Ours was full of fresh seafood and served in a giant cast iron skillet. We finished the day with a walk down to the harbor to see the cruise ship docked there (major cruise destination) and enjoyed some sweet helado on the way back. Good thing for a leisurely evening and early bedtime since the next two days were very busy.
6 One of my favorite parts of this trip was to spend the morning at the beach, Playa la Malagueta, relaxing on a rented chair under a thatched umbrella and putting my feet in the Mediterranean. I had only just a few months before seen the Mediterranean from the Moroccan side at Tangier, so this was a nice bookend to that. The water in April was too cold for swimming (for me - though there were others in the water), but just to stand there and to feel the sand between my toes and the cool, blue sea water swirling around my ankles was such a pleasure. I have a habit of doing this wherever I can, this sensory delight of feet firmly planted on land while looking out to the horizon brings a connection to the Earth and to all the people on it. It is at once grounding and uplifting.
A small cabana opened up, so I walked over and had a refreshing, cold drink. A number of women were peddling massages and some men were peddling scarves. While I disregarded them at first, I eventually decided to get a massage (20 euro) because... vacation. It was actually nice to lie on a lounge chair with the sea breeze and have a back, arms, shoulders, and neck massage. I was quite relaxed and enjoying reading a good book when my spouse declared that he needed some physical activity. This is the lesson I have learned about traveling: if you want to do exactly as you want to do, travel alone; if you want company, you will have to compromise a bit.
Everything we wanted to do and see in Malaga was in walking distance from our hotel. We had walked to the beach, so now we packed up and walked past the gorgeous 19th-century cast-iron Fuente de las Tres Gracias at a busy roundabout and began our long ascent to the Gibralfaro. Fortunately, there are many places to stop for breaks along the paved path, and the occasional busker (street musician) to give a soundtrack to your trek. You share it with others making the same slow climb, and that also bolsters your efforts. I recommend a hat because there are long stretches with no shade cover, despite the amazing views of Malaga and the sea and the old city at different vista points along the way. You will be amazed to see Plaza de Toros La Malagueta (the Malaga bullring) from 1876 hidden in the midst of hi-rise apartment buildings and hotels, and picturesque views of the gardens along Paseo del Parque, the glass cube of the Pompidou Museum (of contemporary art), and the magnificent, baroque Our Lady of Incarnation Cathedral dating to 1530.
From the top of Mount Gibralfaro, I could see clearly why the Moors chose to build a castle and fortress here to defend against invaders from the sea and land. Like Gibraltar (Jbel Al Tariq), the name is a translation of the Arabic jbel (mountain) and in this case faro (coming from the Greek for beacon or lighthouse). You can buy tickets online or in-person, but we had no problem getting in without advance reservations. If you buy tickets online, they will scan them from your phone. Your options are a single ticket for the Castillo tour or a combo ticket to include the Alcazaba (fortress palace, Spanish for al kasbah) in the historic center at the bottom of the mountain. We opted for just the Castillo since we also wanted to see a museum afterwards (and we had the chance to see the alcazar in Sevilla the following week). Entrance includes a self-guided audio tour and an interpretive center housing important artefacts. The views from the hilltop are spectacular and the grounds are a beautiful mix of nature and centuries-old structures. It was well worth the effort. As a bonus, the trek back down the sloped walkways of the mountain is much more fun, and we even stopped to talk with some other tourists from India by way of London who were remarking on the bougainvillea and lantana, meeting people from other places being one of the great advantages and pleasures of traveling.
We strolled contentedly through the botanical gardens of the Parque de Malaga and saw the Alcazaba from the outside, which was enough for us. Passing the Teatro Romano (ancient Roman outdoor theater), we re-entered the historic city center and stopped for a beverage before heading to the Picasso Museum (Malaga being his birthplace). It's a good idea to buy the tickets online in advance during high season, but since it was late in the day, we were able to buy them at the door without much of a queue. Housed in a former 16th-century palace is a carefully-curated collection of 200 of his works arranged by the various periods and themes of his long life and career presented in their historic context, including The Three Graces, Still Life with Minotaur, and Musketeer with Sword. I highly recommend this collection to cap off a day walking on the beach and among a castle's ruins.
7 My main reason for visiting Andalusia was for the visit to the Alhambra at Granada, considered one of the highlights of any tour of the region. With my interest in Morocco, North Africa, and Arab and Islamic culture, I was enthusiastic about seeing this jewel of Moorish-Iberian history. We took an escorted tour to Granada that included a visit to this preserved Medieval Muslim city-fortress, the last vestige of Moorish rule of the Iberian Peninsula and the prized jewel of its 15th century battle against the Catholic monarchy. Here, Queen Isabella signed the decree for the second Spanish Inquisition and expulsion or forced conversion of the Sephardic Jewish people, and here she also met with Columbus to pay for his 1492 voyage. Tickets to visit this significant historic site must be purchased in advance, and they are well worth it. The advantage of an escorted tour is that your group can skip the queue, and this is a popular and crowded destination during high season. Traveling 1.5 hours by tour bus gave us a chance to relax, talk, and view the scenery. Free time in the city of Granada gave us a chance to enjoy a local lunch and meet some new friends on the tour who dined at the same restaurant. I find this to be one of the nicest parts of travel: meeting new people and making new friends.
Walking along the paths of the city-within-a-city and the Generalife (summer palace and gardens of the Nasrid Emirs from the 13th to 15th centuries) called us back to another time. Mazes of enormous cypress trees and fruit orchards drew us into another world of fountains, reflecting pools, and stone archways. Adjacent to the Alhambra fortress itself but part of the entire complex, the palace's pebbled walkways lead you to flowering courtyards, porticos looking out onto the historic Albaicin district on the hillside, and inner chambers of ornamental vaulted ceilings, intricately carved alabaster walls, and distinctive motifs. As with other structures throughout Andalusia, the entire complex and community (and yes, there are a few families who live within its confines) reflect the legacy of Moorish-Spanish architecture in which Muslim elements (including arch styles and wall carvings, Arabic script, and Islamic stars) remain.
The Alhambra itself has a reddish hue (iron oxide in the local red clay used to construct it). It is adorned with Islamic calligraphy throughout despite hundreds of years of a Christian monarchy. To me, this and the repeated evidence of it seen throughout the region suggests that the interreligious and interethnic heritage and history is too interwoven to be untied.
Days 8-10 Córdoba
8 The train journey to Córdoba from Malaga is less than two hours. If you wanted to, you could take it to Antequera for a visit to one of the white villages of the mountain region and then continue to Cordoba from there. I toyed with that idea, but ultimately we would rather not pack our schedules too tightly; good trips balance active days and slower ones for a more enjoyable experience. Arriving by taxi from the station at the Hotel Mezquita was a wonderful surprise: we were in the historic center again, specifically the Jewish Quarter, and adjacent to the Mezquita-Cathedral of Cordoba, our main point of interest for this city. In fact, we laughed with delight when we opened our bedroom windows to the sight of the Mezquita's entrance and the sounds of its bell tower ringing as if in energetic welcome. The hotel itself is an historic building dating from the 1500s and filled with antique furnishings, a large inner courtyard for breakfast buffet, and a small courtyard containing two of the original columns of the mosque. Outside is Plaza Santa Catalina with umbrella-topped tables for enjoying a coffee as people of all ages and backgrounds pass along the stone streets and buskers entertain with traditional guitar or violin music.
9 Having only read about it in advance, I was not prepared for the immensity and beauty inside the Mezquita. I stood open-mouthed taking in the row after row after row of double-arched naves in red and white stone and marble columns. The further I stepped, the more it grew into section after section showing its expansions over time from Abdul Al-Rahman I's original 8th century mosque built with the materials from the Romans and Visigoths before him to the Gothic chapels and today's cathedral. That the Mihrab (mosque niche facing Mecca, the focal point of prayer) stands not far from monumental Main Chapel, with its vaulted transept and buttresses and its sculptures of the Apostles, stands as a testament to the blend of religions and of architectural styles. This is a magnificent structure to behold and, in my opinion, an absolute must-see. Followed by a meal of delicious Syrian food at Restaurante Damasco (fattouch salad, pink pomegranate hummus, and foul tahine) this was a perfect day.
10 We traipsed around the city, exploring all the wonders to behold. You can walk across the Roman Bridge and turn back for a beautiful view (and photo) of the Puerta del Puente (city gate) and historic city center. In the Spring, you will see little girls in communion dresses taking pictures near the Calahorra Tower or in the park along the Guadalquivir River. We saw the Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs from the outside only because we wanted to visit the garden courtyards of the Patios Cordobeses. By traversing the city streets and lanes, we found pretty churches and the Plaza de la Corredera (17th century town square now set up for dining like the Plaza Mayor in Madrid). We even happened upon the Templo Romano (Roman temple ruins) amidst the modern buildings of Cordoba, which I had read about and then forgotten was located there. Around every corner, something unexpected and beautiful. To be honest, Cordoba was our favorite city of the entire trip.
Days 11-13 Sevilla
11 The train station at Córdoba was quiet on a weekday afternoon, and it was a brief wait, easy boarding, and short ride (45 minutes) to Sevilla. The passing landscape is charming and lush, and before you know it you are pulling into the station at Santa Justa. Our taxi driver took care of loading our bags and the ride to The Corner House in Alameda de Hércules was no more than 15 minutes and about 5 euros. This accommodation is a little more modern, with the reception desk set inside a hip, lively Michelin-recommended restaurant, El Disparate, within a tree-lined square in the historic central district. Friendly, helpful staff made the check-in easy and pleasant. A late lunch downstairs of two interesting, tasty small plates: tomato, watermelon, and smoked sardine salad as well as artichoke carpaccio with parmesan, pistachio, and jerky - was followed by a welcome siesta.
Later, we lost ourselves among the crooked streets of the old town and happened upon the remarkable 18th century La Iglesia de San Nicolás de Bari, with its magnificently detailed altarpieces. We eventually settled on outdoor dining at an Italian restaurant, Maccheroni Alfalfa, in the Plaza de la Alfalfa, a charming little neighborhood of local eateries and taverns with a small children's playground in the center, lots of locals enjoying their evening meal. Again, we were treated to interesting taste combinations suggesting that Sevilla's cuisine is set apart from others of Andalusia: a starter of deconstructed bruschetta presented as olive oil-drizzled toast, grilled zucchini topped with pine nuts, and burrata cheese (looks like fresh mozzarella on the outside but has a softer, sweet and creamy filling); an arugula, tomato, avocado, and salmon salad; pasta entrees of spinach and ricotta ravioli in a light Bolognese sauce and reginelle-style pasta with pesto and parmesan; capped off with a dessert of chocolate mascarpone and a cappuccino. This is a family neighborhood with children laughing and playing as their parents enjoy a delectable meal, and dogs of varying sizes trot after their owners. People ducked under awnings as a sudden rain formed the backdrop of our meal, and the gradual light of streetlamps revealed the wet stone streets. I recommend this wander.
12 For this full day in Sevilla, we wanted to visit the Alcazar. We had learned that this is a popular site and that it is best to get tickets online in advance, so we booked them while still in Cordoba. A warning: the online tickets are non-refundable and cannot be exchanged for a different day. I made the mistake of booking this and another activity on the same day, and neither could be changed. We asked in person, but we ended up having to forfeit the next day's tickets and pay for new ones for this day.
Major cities in Andalusia have alcazars (former royal palaces of the Moorish sultans), but we were told that this one in Seville was the prettiest. I cannot say since I didn't see any others, but this one was outstanding and a thorough tour allowed us to see and experience the detailed centuries-old architecture that, once again, preserves the heritage of Muslim and Christian dynasties alike. You will need to allow at least two hours for this and to wear comfortable shoes. You can scan the bar code at the entrance to listen to audio guides on your phone throughout the facility.
For dinner, we got together with some friends we met earlier in the trip while touring the Alhambra. This is one of the best parts of travel: meeting and connecting with new people. We knew that both couples would be in Seville at the same time, so we planned to keep in touch and make time to share a meal. It rained off and on, but tucking under shared umbrellas allowed for closer conversation and cheerful bonding with our new friends from Australia. It was a happy evening of wandering the Sevilla streets and enjoying another delicious meal outdoors at Rinconete y Cortadillo (named for a Cervantes story). Expect to access the menu by scanning a provided bar code, perhaps the new normal after the Covid pandemic? We four shared several dishes: passion ceviche of sea bass, passion fruit, and pomegranate; croquettes in mint cream; octopus salad; and tuna tartare with edamame hummus, all very tasty. Cabbing back to the hotel and then walking along the plaza, we bid our friends a fond farewell under the awning of our hotel, with sincere offers of hosting for a visit at either one's home.
13 Our final day in in this part of Andalusia had us traveling on an escorted tour to Jerez de la Frontera and Cadiz. Let me say this: it was the only part of the entire trip that we could have done without. This is not to say that we did not enjoy visiting the Mediterranean coast once more at Cadiz, but rather that the stop in Jerez left much to be desired because it was for the most part a tour and tasting at a sherry winery in a lackluster part of town, with only the briefest of stops in the historic town center beforehand leaving time for either browsing and shopping or eating, but not both. Since the tour left early in the morning from Seville, we opted to eat breakfast and saw very little of the city. An optional excursion in Jerez instead of the free time and walking tour is an Andalusian horse show, and I would have chosen that if I knew it was available. We did get a bit more time on our own in Cadiz followed by a guided walking tour of the city. The long bus ride back gave us time for a nap after a long day of walking.
Days 14-15 Madrid
14 It was with a tinge of melancholy that we traveled by train back to Madrid for the 2.5-hour ride, and I consoled myself with a cup of espresso in the dining car, standing at the counter and watching the countryside roll by. For this final night, we stayed at the NH Barajas Airport hotel to easily get to the airport by free shuttle the next morning. This turned out to be a great choice because it was not only clean, comfortable, modern, and close to the airport, but it was in an unexpectedly charming residential neighborhood where we found good restaurants, bodegas from which to buy beverages for the room, and families and friends enjoying the pleasant weather and evening sunset among tree-lined streets and parks. As there were several in the area, we chose Restaurant Huasheng for a final meal of Chinese cuisine just for a change of pace (ensalada de brotes de soja, rollo de primavera, rollito de langostino, California sushi rolls, gambas con ancardos, and ternera con bambu y setas chinas). A stroll back to the hotel and casual evening of packing and early sleep allowed us to reflect on our travels and express our gratitude for the opportunity. A family tradition is to name our Top Ten of the trip, and we were pretty much in agreement that these included the bullfight, flamenco, and Prado Museum in Madrid; the day in Toledo; the beach and Picasso Museum at Malaga, the Alhambra at Granada, the Mezquita at Cordoba, and the Alcazar at Sevilla, and the food all over.
15 Despite the short shuttle ride from the hotel, we spent a lot of time on lines at the airport. Since we were not checking bags, getting a boarding pass was easy, but then the lines for passport check and security screening were long, so do make sure to get there two or more hours before boarding. The journey from Madrid to Marrakech is a short one and there is only beverage service, so grab a sandwich near your gate to eat on the plane. The flight to the U.S., though is long enough for a meal, a movie, and a nap, so sit back and enjoy it!
All in all, we consider this one of our best vacations ever, and we plan to return to Spain, to Andalusia, and to other parts of the country yet to be explored.
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